Ok, I understand the concept of the basic dirthole set. Lure on the backing, hole with or without bait, trap in front of hole. Target animal steps on trap while investigating the hole.Now onto the flat set. I see there is also a backing, but no hole.
Firmly bedded is one of the most important steps to a good dirt hole set. It will be less likely to tip or spring when the animal steps on the outer area of the trap bed. The trap should spring only when the fox steps on the trap pan. Place a trap cover over the trap and sift 1/2' of dirt over the entire trap and trap bed area.
So is the backing getting the lure? Where is the trap bed? What is the concept with this type of set? What's the difference between the flat set and a post set?
How do you get the animal to approach the correct side of the backing? Would like to ad d this set to my arsenal this year as I am going to be k9 trapping pretty hard, and would like to know the hows and whys of this set.Thanks!Chris.
But how does it work?Example A.Say I use a stick 4-6 inches in diameter 2 ft long as my backing. The trap is bed about 4 inches in front of it. Lure on the stick.
How do I get the fox or coyote to approach the set from the correct side? Do I need another 'backing', guiding, or will they circle it checking both sides. I'm envisioning a set out in say a cut crop field where they could approach the set from any direction. So how do I get them to step on the trap?Also, what is the difference between a post set and a flat set?Thanks!Chris.
Magnumhntr,Flat sets are a great change up set to have in your back pocket.I like to mix up my sets and use dirtholes, flat and urine/scent post sets on any given property or location I am setting up for canines.Here is a version of a flat set that I have had good success with over the years.I use a rerod stake to make the two scent holes and then cover the scent hole with some grass or a leaf.By having two different lures, the fox or coyote will have a tendancy move back and forth between them and increase the change of stepping on the trap pan. I use a very small twig or stone as a guide on one side of the trap for the canine to step over.Flat sets can throw a real curve to the canine that has become wise to the dirthole set.Here is photo of a remade Flat Set, after a nice coyote found it too tempting to pass. Hind foot catches are fairly common at a flat set for obvious reasons. I think I understand it now so if I were to lure the backing, I'm assuming I just put the lure on the same side as the trap, vs on top of the backing? I see where David is trying to get them to check out both lures hoping to get them to step on the pan while going back and forth.
But with Griffondogs' example, the lure would be placed on the same side of the backing, correct? Or will they circle the set regardless of where the lure is placed.
I guess I'm trying to understand how an animal will approach and work a flat set, seeing as there isn't a hole on one side for them to focus on and in doing so, will know how to get them to step on my panSecondly, is the post set nothing more than a flat set with urine instead of lure? Or is there more to it than that?Thanks for the direction!CHris. Chris,'so if I were to lure the backing, I'm assuming I just put the lure on the same side as the trap, vs on top of the backing?' I would suggest, if you are only going to be using a single type of lure or scent at your flat set, to place it on the downwind side near the base or even slightly under your backing. Rather than simply on top.
This will help in getting the canine to work the side of the backing where you have you trap set.' I see where David is trying to get them to check out both lures hoping to get them to step on the pan while going back and forth. But with Griffondogs' example, the lure would be placed on the same side of the backing, correct?'
By using two different types of attractors at the flat set it will increase the canines curiosity. You can use a food lure in combination with gland scent, but I would not recommend using any really loud call lure at this type of set. A call lure could be placed some distance 20 or 25' up wind from the set several feet above the ground, if you are trying to draw the canine to your set from their normal travel route.'
Or will they circle the set regardless of where the lure is placed. I guess I'm trying to understand how an animal will approach and work a flat set, seeing as there isn't a hole on one side for them to focus on and in doing so, will know how to get them to step on my pan 'As you gain experience in reading sign, you will develop a sixth sense regarding where to place you trap to maximize your potential for success. By this I mean you will come to visualize where the coyote or fox will travel as they pass through any particular terrain. It is a good idea to spend as much time as you can tracking fox and coyote in the snow, so you can see how they travel in relationship to various types of landscapes they encounter.But by always making your set and placement of your set with the prevailing wind direction in mind you will definitely increase your chances of making your catch.
A canine will invaribly work a set from the downwind side!' Secondly, is the post set nothing more than a flat set with urine instead of lure? Or is there more to it than that?' A scent post set, also can have many variations. This type of set is basically imitation of where a fox or coyote has marked its territory. So when you are doing your snow tracking of your fox or coyote pay special attention to how they approach a location they have marked with urine.
Especially to where they place their feet in relationship to the point of aim.A tuff of grass scent post set is one of my favorites and with a fresh fox or coyote dropping place on top it makes it even better.It is fun to set sand blows for fox or coyotes using a leading scent post set. The fact that scent post is leading will insure that they work the scent post of the side you want them to come into it from. I love this set, I use it just like Dave describes. I also will use it with no backing at all. Simply two holes with a trap in the middle and a different lure in each hole. I also make the holes point towards the trap (angle the hole goes down) so the animal has to be on the trap side to get his best sniff at it.
I believe i caught 2 coyotes and 3 bobcats in this manner last year. (bobcats must use their noses sometimes too )edit: the droppings really do work well. Its funny driving around and stopping to pic up coyote poop laying on the roads. Hi all,I have been reading all the posts and trap set variations and taking into account all that i have already learned, i feel confident that i can outsmartthe K9. I just have a few questions from a guy who hasn't bought or set his first trap. (I am looking to buy a few traps real soon for the fall season.
Any suggestions?)Do you double stake a trap in an 'X' pattern to prevent pull out?What do i do with the length of chain i have on my trap?How do i disperce not target quarry? Mad dog or Racoon.?Will latex gloves out of the box be a good choice for scent control.?Can someone post hints on scent cotrol methods prior to getting out.?That should take care of my most pressing questions. Thanks in advance - i have learned so much already from all you well seasoned trappers and i haven't been out yet.
Awesome threads! While i was thinking of it i checked Craigslist.com and found 13 #3 traps already modified for a reasonable price.I read more Basic trapping posts and know about double staking.I found out about where the extra chain goes. I now have an idea about a catch pole but still wonder about skunks.I am still wondering about scents and scent control.I read about keeping your scents seperate from your traps.Do i need a CCW to carry a small.22 for my successful traps?How do i manage my euthanising technique so minimal damage occures?Thanks in advance for your help. Do i need a CCW to carry a small.22 for my successful traps?
If your going to use a pistol then I would have one, if your using a rifle then no.How do i manage my euthanising technique so minimal damage occures? Use 22 shorts/CB'sI am still wondering about scents and scent control.I read about keeping your scents seperate from your traps.I use just a clean/new pair of jersy gloves (I only caught 1 fox last year) I keep my sents/lures in a pouch on the side of my bucket (it was a tool pouch that I tied to the 5gal pal I put my traps in) holds them real nice. Another idea is to use a choke tube pouch for shotguns.
About UsFounded in 1999, Michigan-Sportsman.com started as a collection of links to Michigan related sites, and a series of manually edited blogs. It was a marriage of my passions for the outdoors and the internet. In late 1999, we started our first message board.
It was one of Michigan's first social networks. Many off-site friendships have formed with others who share the same interests in the outdoors through the site. Thanks for your patronage - Steve.
Site Functions. Useful Links. Support the site!The management works very hard to make sure the community is running the best software, best designs, and all the other bells and whistles. Care to buy us a beer? We'd really appreciate it!
By Clint Locklear, Predator Control GroupI have tried about every trap placement known to man over the years. I’ve had the trap super close to the hole or object. Then I got into backing the trap up 6-9 inches from the hole. Next, I watched a few trapping demos and the “right” trap placement was left or right 2 inches, 4 inches or 6 inches. Then I got into the western way to coyote trap and my trap placement was centered to the dirt hole and trap was 10-12 inches back. I caught coyotes in all the above trap placements. It did become clear that pulling the trap back to the 10-12 inches was closer to the “perfect” trap placement. I found out over the years, that the experience of the trapper and knowing the coyotes better, was what started me down the road to the perfect trap placement.This is not an easy subject to put into print or even a video for that matter.
That is because each trap set needs to have a different trap placement. Once I got out of the mindset of putting in a set with predetermined trap placements, trapping started getting real fun. If you are under the impression that the trap needs to be center or offset for your dirt holes for example, your being a set trapper and not an animal trapper. Are you into the belief that the trap needs to be tight, 5-8 inches back or set farther back from the hole at your sets, and this is your trap placement day in and day out, your missing coyotes. Why?This mathematical formula style of setting, forgets the most important aspect of coyote trapping, the coyote. This also goes for bobcat, fox, raccoon or beaver trapping.
A mathematical trap set forgets the lay of the land, time of year, animal habits and proximity to the travel way itself. I wish a mathematical style set would work everywhere and every time, but it wont. Now if you’re in a high population area, have little competition and have tons of land to trap (classic long lining) you can get away with it. If your like most modern trappers, you will have a job, competition, and limited ground to trap. You can’t afford a low catch per visit percentage like a long liner can.So how do you pull off a higher visit to catch ratio? You have to step back and see how a coyote will circle, use cover and trails to work the set. You have to take a close look at the ground around the set and figure out how the coyote will step up to check out the set, urinate on it or sneak up on the set.
If you are under the idea that coyotes are the bully in the woods, you have never see them work a set or watched any of the coyote Teachers or the Night videos. They act like a meth head sneaking up on a “mark”. Once you know this, you have to guess where the trap needs to be for the coyote to work the set. The way a coyote will actually work the set. This style of trapping takes experience on the trap line. At first you will have to learn from your mistakes and then mentally category what you lean for future sets. Put some thought into placing your trap for a coyote, not following a formula that the animals could care less about anyway.If your disappointed in this article, ask yourself why?
Nothing worth a damn is easy or should be. It’s called learning, putting that learning too use and then learning some more. A better phrase is paying you dues. If you are looking for a formula to give you that perfect trap placement for coyotes, bobcats or fox, your setting yourself up for a marginal trap line experience.
Don’t do that to yourself, you are better that.How do you determine where you put a trap at a coyote set. Please leave a comment. Jess, the plbroem is that the coyotes have no predators and their numbers are out of control. As winter sets in they will be looking for an easy food supply and anything with a pulse will do. My lead-hand had let his dogs out for a run for a few minutes and when one didn’t return he went looking.
All he saw were some coyotes in the area. A week or so later all he found left of his dog was his collar and bones. It happened that quickly. Coyotes have been showing up in urban areas in Norfolk and Haldimand and children do walk from house to house and go out to play. And, no coyotes are not more afraid of us’ than we are of them.